Inspector Perspective

Inspector safety

This post is directed to fellow home inspectors. Many inspectors throughout the country put themselves at risk every day. I'm talking about inspectors who have to inspect electric panels that are hinged at the top.

DON'T REST THE COVER ON YOUR HEAD!

One of the most dangerous aspects of our job is opening electric panels. We work on this equipment when it is live. Amateur wiring, arc blasts, exposed buss bars etc make this a really scary task. Too many inspectors use their head to hold open older panel covers that won't stay up on their own. This creates a path to ground. If you come into contact with an energized component, you can be electrocuted.

After years of performing home inspections, we have developed a new tool to help inspectors avoid this dangerous practice.

 Panel Pal safely holding a panel cover

If you are concerned about getting electrocuted, please check out this inexpensive tool at www.panelpal.com. It could prevent a tragedy.

 

Philippe Heller
President
The San Diego Real Estate Inspection Co.
www.sdinspections.com
and
KP Pro Tools, LLC
www.PanelPal.com

2 commentsPhilippe Heller • February 06 2010 08:42AM

How to protect a clothes dryer fire from happening in your home.

This is great info for home owners! Safety First!

Via Stephen Podmaska (Podmaska Insurance Agency):

Dryer Fire 2

Any Fire that happens in your home can be a devastating one especially one that could have been prevented. At Podmaska Insurance Agency we want to help make sure this doesn't happen to you. Here are a few tips we hope will help protect your home from a preventable fire.

Your Dryer May be Failing If:
The clothes are taking an extra long period of time to dry, come out hotter than usual or if the vent  flapper doesn't open. In this case calling a qualified technician is probably a good idea.

Keep Your Dryer as Lint-Free as Possible
By keeping your dryer clean and lint-free, not only will you greatly reduce a fire hazard from happening, you will also save money as your dryer will run more efficiently and last longer. 
To keep your dryer clean:
1. Use a lint brush or vacuum attachment to remove accumulated lint from under the lint trap and other accessible places on a regular basis.
2. Every 1-3 years, depending upon usage, have the dryer taken apart and thoroughly cleaned out by a qualified service technician. 
3. Clean the lint trap after each load.

Before You Go....
1. Never let your clothes dryer run while you are out of the house or even worse, when you are asleep. 
2. Thoroughly read the manufacturers' instructions regarding the safe use of their dryers.
3. When all else fails, you can always use an old-fashioned clothesline like Grandma did.  There have never been any reports of a clothesline fires! 

 

Philippe Heller
President
The San Diego Real Estate Inspection Co.
www.sdinspections.com
and
KP Pro Tools, LLC
www.PanelPal.com

2 commentsPhilippe Heller • February 04 2010 06:07PM

The Perfect Home Inspector

There seems to be a love-hate relationship between home inspectors and agents. Inspectors are often demonized as "deal killers" or worse. So who are these inspectors and how did they get involved in real estate?

Let's start with a brief history. The home inspection industry was created by agents as a way to reduce liability. Back around the 1980's agents started getting sued for material defects in a house, even though this was obviously outside the scope of their expertise. Smart agents and brokers started to rely on an evaluation by a contractor. These contractor inspections provided an evaluation of the home so that the buyers knew what they were getting.

At first, some agents were threatened by this new step in the process. They cringed when a buyer requested getting an inspection. But the seasoned agents knew that this was a smart way to go. They realized it was better to lay the chips on the table before the close of escrow so that buyers didn't find out about defects the hard way - after they moved in!

A home inspection is now a standard process in most real estate transactions. The inspection industry has grown, and has become a career for many men and women. Not just a part time job that contractors used to perform. As with any industry, standards soon developed so that buyers and agents would get predictable information from a home inspector.

Unfortunately too many agents and buyers wait until there is a problem before they read the inspector‘s Standards-Of-Practice. "Why didn't he see the crack under the wood floor? Didn't he climb on the tile roof in the snow? Did he check every receptacle? Didn't he test for mold? What about the hillside behind the house?" This leads to really angry clients and agents who are calling their E&O carrier.

So how do you find out what "your" inspector will be doing? Most inspectors today will have a website, or belong to a National or State organization such as NACHI or CREIA that post their standards. Each one is slightly different, so we recommend that you read the standards thoroughly.

Now back to the love. Please remember that a thorough home inspection protects the agents and the buyers. You want a good inspector working for your clients. Trust me, if there is a problem, it is way better to discover it prior to the end of escrow. You know who gets the first call otherwise - you.

One of the most important things agents can do to prevent buyers from "freaking out" is to properly set expectations. This is really important if the buyer is buying an older house. You need to explain that there may be cast iron plumbing, and that ALL equipment has a life span. Setting expectations can make the difference between the buyer going ahead with a house purchase, or stomping on the breaks.

Selecting an inspector is a big responsibility. There is too much liability at stake. You should only suggest the most reputable companies that offer the most information and value to the buyer.  Refrain from price shopping.  The better inspectors will have made a big investment in technology. This includes a robust up-to-date website, current testing equipment, and computer generated reports. And the really top-notch inspectors will have Infrared Cameras, certifications, and great office support.

We are all in this together. The combined goal should be to find the right house for the right buyer. Then protect everyone from liability and disappointment by having the best inspection possible. Remember, the inspector is like a doctor; you may not want to hear what he has to say but in the end, you'll appreciate the consultation.

Philippe Heller is President of The San Diego Real Estate Inspection Company

Philippe Heller
President
The San Diego Real Estate Inspection Co.
www.sdinspections.com
and
KP Pro Tools, LLC
www.PanelPal.com

7 commentsPhilippe Heller • February 04 2010 05:00PM

Burglar Resistant Homes

Burglar-Resistant Homes

There are a number of measures that homeowners can take to ensure that their homes are not attractive to burglars. If clients are concerned about break-ins, inspectors can pass on to them basic strategies for burglar-proofing their homes.   Some interesting statistics concerning break-ins in the United States:

InterNACHI estimates that theft makes up more than three-quarters of all reported crime. 

  • In 2005, law enforcement agencies reported more than 2 million burglary offenses.

According to a survey, burglars enter homes through the following locations: 

  • 81 percent enter through the first floor;
  • 34 percent of burglars enter through the front door;
  • 23 percent enter through a first-floor window;
  • 22 percent enter through the back door
  • 9 percent enter through the garage;
  • 4 percent enter through the basement;
  • 4 percent enter through an unlocked entrance;
  • 2 percent enter through a storage area; and 
  • 2 percent enter anywhere on the second floor.

Exterior Doors:

  • Doors should be made of steel or solid-core wood construction. Hollow-core wood doors are more easily broken than heavy, solid-core doors.
  • Doors should be free of signs of rot, cracks and warping.
  • Doors should be protected by quality deadbolt locks. Chain locks are not adequate substitutes for deadbolt locks, although chain locks may be used as additional protection.
  • If a mail slot is present, it should be equipped with a cage or box. Mailslots that are not equipped with cages or boxes have been used by burglers to enter homes.  Burglars can insert a contraption made of wire and cord into the mail slot and use it to open the lock from the inside, if no box or cage is present.
  • If a door is equipped with glass panes, they should be installed far from the lock. Otherwise, burglars can smash the glass and reach through the door to unlock the door.
  • Spare keys should not be hidden in obvious locations. Burglars are very good at finding keys that homeowners believe are cleverly hidden. The best place for a spare key is in the house of a trusted neighbor. If keys must be hidden near the door, they should not be placed in obvious locations, such as under a doormat, rock or planter.  
  • A peephole can be installed in doors so homeowners can see who is on their doorstep before they open the door.
  • Clients should consider installing bump-resistant locks on their doors. "Bumping" is a technique developed recently that can open almost any standard lock with less effort than is required by lock-picking. This technique uses "bump keys," which are normal keys with slight modifications. Lock companies such as Schlage Primus and Medeco manufacture a number of locks that offer some bump-resistance.

Pet Doors:

  • Pet doors can be used by burglars to enter homes. Some burglars have reached through pet doors in order to unlock the door. It is advisable to not have a pet door, but if one is necessary, it should be as small as possible and installed far from the lock.
  • A crafty burglar may convince or coerce a small child to crawl through a pet door and unlock the door. Also, some burglars are children.
  • Electronic pet doors are available that open only when the pet, equipped with a signaling device in their collar, approaches the door. These doors are designed to keep stray animals out of the home, and may provide protection against burglars, as well.

Sliding Glass Doors:

  • They should be equipped with locks on their tops and bottoms.
  • They should not be able to be lifted from their frames.
  • A cut-off broom handle, or a similar device, can be laid into the door track to prevent it from being opened.

Illumination:

  • Lights should be installed on the exterior of all four sides of the house. Burglars prefer darkness so they cannot be seen by neighbors or passersby.
  • When building occupants are not home, a few lights should be left on.
  • It is helpful to install exterior lights that are activated by motion sensors. Burglars that are suddenly illuminated may flee.

Windows:

  • All windows should be composed of strong glass, such as laminated glass, and be in good operating order.
  • They can be installed with bars, grilles, grates or heavy-duty wire screening. Barred windows must be equipped with a quick-release mechanism so occupants can quickly escape during a fire.
  • Windows should not be hidden by landscaping or structures. If landscaping or structures cannot be moved, lighting can be installed around the windows.

Landscape and Yard:

  • Shrubs and trees should not obscure the view of entrances. Shielded entrances can provide cover for burglars while they attempt to enter the residence.
  • Fences are helpful burglar deterrents, although they should not be difficult to see through.

While the house is vacant:

  • A loud radio can be used to make burglars think someone is home. Timers can be used to activate radios and lights to make the home seem occupied.
  • A car should always be parked in the driveway. A neighbor's car can be parked there so that it appears as if someone is home.
  • The lawn should be cut regularly. Uncut grass is a clue that no one is home.

Other tips:

  • Dogs are excellent burglar deterrents. For clients who cannot own dogs, they can place "beware of dog" signs around the yard for nearly the same effect.
  • If no security system is installed, the client can post security alarm stickers around the yard.

In summary, there are a number of tactics that inspectors can pass on to their clients that will help safeguard their homes from break-ins. There is no substitute for a good alarm system. A quality, monitored alarm system can also contact help in the event of a fire, break-in, flood, or carbon monoxide leak even if you are not at home. For a free no obligation quote for an alarm system and monitoring, please contact us at www.sdinspections.com or info@sdinspections.com

Philippe Heller
President
The San Diego Real Estate Inspection Co.
www.sdinspections.com
and
KP Pro Tools, LLC
www.PanelPal.com

5 commentsPhilippe Heller • January 30 2010 09:14AM

10 Easy Ways to Reduce Energy Consumption

Most people don't know how easy it is to make their homes run on less energy, and here at InterNACHI, we want to change that. Drastic reductions in heating, cooling and electricity costs can be accomplished through very simple changes, most of which homeowners can do themselves. Of course, for homeowners who want their homes to take advantage of the most up-to-date knowledge and systems in home energy-efficiency, InterNACHI energy auditors can perform in-depth testing to find the best energy solutions for your particular home. 

Why make your home more energy efficient? Here are a few good reasons:

  • Federal, state, utility and local jurisdictions' financial incentives, such as tax breaks, are very advantageous in most parts of the U.S.
  • It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient.
  • It increases indoor comfort levels.
  • It reduces our impact on climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming.
  • It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants that find their way into the air, soil and water supplies.

1. Find better ways to heat and cool your house. 

As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems:

  • Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy.
  • Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters.
  • Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70°F, for example, saves about 10% on heating costs.
  • Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs.
  • Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces.
  • At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room.

2. Install a tankless water heater.

Demand water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don't produce the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Demand water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. Therefore, they avoid the standby heat losses required by traditional storage water heaters. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. Either a gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don't need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water.

3. Replace incandescent lights.

The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFL), can reduce energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:

  • CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs.
  • LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy.
  • LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury.

4. Seal and insulate your home.

Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy efficient -- and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An InterNACHI energy auditor can be hired to assess envelope leakage and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings.

The following are some common places where leakage may occur:

  • electrical outlets;
  • mail slots;
  • around pipes and wires;
  • wall- or window-mounted air conditioners;
  • attic hatches;
  • fireplace dampers;
  • weatherstripping around doors;
  • baseboards;
  • window frames; and
  • switch plates.

Because hot air rises, air leaks are most likely to occur in the attic. Homeowners can perform a variety of repairs and maintenance to their attics that save them money on cooling and heating, such as: 

  • Plug the large holes. Locations in the attic where leakage is most likely to be the greatest are where walls meet the attic floor, behind and under attic knee walls, and in dropped-ceiling areas.
  • Seal the small holes. You can easily do this by looking for areas where the insulation is darkened. Darkened insulation is a result of dusty interior air being filtered by insulation before leaking through small holes in the building envelope. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it hits the cold attic air. In warmer weather, you'll find water staining in these same areas. Use expanding foam or caulk to seal the openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. Cover the areas with insulation after the caulk is dry.
  • Seal up the attic access panel with weatherstripping. You can cut a piece of fiberglass or rigid foam board insulation the same size as the attic hatch and glue it to the back of the attic access panel. If you have pull-down attic stairs or an attic door, these should be sealed in a similar manner.

5. Install efficient shower heads and toilets.

The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes:

  • low-flow shower heads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up;
  • low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of two gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have "1.6 GPF" marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank;
  • vacuum-assist toilets. These types of toilets have a vacuum chamber which uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with water to clear waste. Vacuum toilets are relatively quiet; and
  • dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years, and are now gaining in popularity in the U.S. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.

6. Use appliances and electronics responsibly.

Appliances and electronics account for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical U.S. home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances:

  • Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool.  
  • Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption in the United States.
  • Use efficient "Energy Star"-rated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the DOE and the EPA's Energy Star Program, include TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers and more. According to the EPA, if just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees.
  • Chargers, such as those for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged.
  • Laptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers.

7. Install daylighting as an alternative to electrical lighting.

Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home's interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches:

  • skylights. It's important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks;
  • lightshelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount;
  • clerestory windows.  Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall. Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth; and 
  • light tubes.  Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun. Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly reflective material, then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly.

8. Insulate windows and doors.

About one-third of the home's total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through windows and doors:

  • Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option.
  • Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, weatherstrip around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren't already in place.
  • Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window.
  • If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don't work, they should be repaired or replaced.

9. Cook smart.

An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking:

  • Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens.
  • Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens.
  • Pans should be placed on the correctly-sized heating element or flame. 
  • Lids make food heat more quickly than pans that do not have lids.
  • Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically.
  • When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster. 

10. Change the way you wash your clothes.

  • Do not use the "half load" setting on your washer. Wait until you have a full load of clothes, as the "half load" setting saves less than half of the water and energy.
  • Avoid using high-temperature settings when clothes are not that dirty. Water that is 140 degrees uses far more energy than 103 degrees for a "warm" setting, but 140 degrees isn't that much better for washing purposes.
  • Clean the lint trap before you use the dryer, every time. Not only is excess lint a fire hazard, but it will prolong the amount of time required for your clothes to dry.
  • If possible, air-dry your clothes on lines and racks.
  • Spin-dry or wring clothes out before putting them into a dryer. 

 

Homeowners who take the initiative to make these changes usually discover that the energy savings are more than worth the effort. However, you should consider that inspectors can make this process much easier and perform a more comprehensive assessment of energy saving potential than you can. For a qualified inspector, visit The San Diego Real Estate inspection Company at www.sdinspections.com.

Philippe Heller
President
The San Diego Real Estate Inspection Co.
www.sdinspections.com
and
KP Pro Tools, LLC
www.PanelPal.com

4 commentsPhilippe Heller • January 30 2010 08:32AM

Buying a house built in the 1980's - 1990's

This article is one of a series of articles written to inform buyers of various items that may be found during an inspection. Over the years technologies and materials that went into the construction of a house have evolved. Occasionally certain products or materials were found to be problematic, and should be replaced. The problems range from leaks to fires, and these important items should be indicated on your home inspection report.

If you are buying a house built in the 1980's or 1990's, there are a few things that may be indicated on your home inspection report. These items should be considered to be potential problems, and a licensed professional should be consulted to evaluate the systems, and be sure they are safe for the house and your family.

Polybutylene plumbing is a type of plastic tubing that was used in the 1980's and 1990's. It was hailed as a great improvement in plumbing for several reasons. First, it was easier and chaper to install than traditional copper plumbing. Second, it going to make corrosion a ting of the past because PB plumbing is not affected by the corrosive nature of Southern California water. 

Polybutylene plubing can fail and flood your house
Polybutylene plubing can fail and flood your house

The problem is that the connections failed and caused millions of dollars in property damage collectively. As a result a recall was issued and a huge settlement was reached. many people who had this type of plumbing installed were entitled to a cash payment to help them have their house re-plumbed with copper. Unfortunately, many homeowners did not take advantace of the settlement and a lot of this type of plumbing exists in San Diego. 

If your home inspector finds this plumbing, expect them to suggest a re-pipe of the house, or at the very least a total evaluation of the plumbins system by a licensed plumber. This type of plumbing was widely installed in San Diego in developments built in the 1980's and 1990's.  For more information please visit www.pbpipes.com 

Another component that was installed in the 1980's was recalled due to the risk of fire. Horizontal furnaces were installed in the attic to save space. Due to concerns about emissions, NOx rods were installed in some of these furnaces.  This picture shows a furnace that was

Just one of many furnaces that were recalled due to fire hazards
Just one of many furnaces that were recalled due to fire hazards

the subject of a recall. The furnaces were manufactured with metal rods over the burner ribbons called NOx rods. The rods were inteneded to reduce harmful emissions from the furnace is a similar wat that a Catalytic Converter reduces emissions from your car. The problem is that the NOx rods in the furnace eventually became brittle because they become red hot each time the furnace turns on. Eventually the rods deteriorate to the point that they break. Unfortunately red hot rods would fall through the bottom of the furnace and set the house on fire. Please see the press release from the Consumer Pruducts Safety Commission regarding the recall.

Many furnace look like the recalled units but do not have the NOx rods inside. Due to the stigma of these furnaces, many heating contractors will refuse to work on these units for liability reasons.

Another component that is part of the heating and air conditioning system that failed is the flexible duct. Prior to the 1980's duct work was rigid, and wrapped with insulation. A new flexible duct was intruduced that eased installation. This new flexible duct has a plastic tube that is held open with a ciol of wire similar to a large spring. The tube is then wrapped with insulation, and the whole assemply is further wrapped with a plastic sleeve. The plastic was not tested for resistance to UV damage, and even though it is in an attic, light still filters in through vents.  Sunlight filtering in through a gable vent has deteriorated the grey plastic sleeve of the duct. This has allowed

Heating duct that has failed due to UV exposure.
Heating duct that has failed due to UV exposure.

 the fiberglass insulation to fall away from the clear plastic tube that makes up the actual duct. While no air is escaping the duct, the lack of insulation reduces the efficiecny of the HVAC system. This condition can sometimes be repaired, but duct replacement is most likely the solution.

These are a few of the problems that we commonly find in house built in the 1980's and 1990's. Not all houses have these components. But if the house we are inspecting does have them, we will report their existence and recommend a course of action.

For more information about home inspections in San Diego, please visit our website at www.sdinspections.com

Philippe Heller
President
The San Diego Real Estate Inspection Co.
www.sdinspections.com
and
KP Pro Tools, LLC
www.PanelPal.com

1 commentPhilippe Heller • August 24 2009 09:23AM

Pool safety - Help protect kids this summer

As we approach the hottest part of summer, pools are a big part of our recreational activities. But drowning is a leading cause of death for children under 5 in California. If you have children, a pool, or a spa please review the info below and forward this e-mail to your friends. The information could prevent a tragedy.

 Each year, hundreds of young children die and thousands come close to death due to submersion in residential swimming pools. The Consumer Products Safety Commission has estimated that each year about 300 children under 5 years old drown in swimming pools. Hospital emergency room treatment is required for more than 2,000 children under 5 years of age who were submerged in residential pools. CPSC did an extensive study of swimming pool accidents, both fatal drowning and near-fatal submersions, in California, Arizona and Florida, states in which home swimming pools are very popular and in use during much of the year. What can you do to prevent an accident?

 Read the whole article at http://sdinspections.com/pool-safety for more information on drowning statistics, safety guidelines, and info on how to keep kids safe.

 Have a safe summer!

 Philippe Heller

The San Diego Real Estate Inspection Co.

(760) 203-9682

www.sdinspections.com

Philippe Heller
President
The San Diego Real Estate Inspection Co.
www.sdinspections.com
and
KP Pro Tools, LLC
www.PanelPal.com

0 commentsPhilippe Heller • August 03 2009 08:13AM

Smoke Detector Requirements

One of the responsibilities of a home inspector is to check the presence and functionality of smoke detectors in a home. Smoke detectors were required first in 1973. The codes pertaining to smoke detectors have expanded since then.

  • In 1973, one smoke detector was required for the whole home.
  • In 1979, code changed to include a required retroactive smoke alarm inspection and hardwired and interconnected alarms when work of more than $1,000 was done on the home.
  • In 1988, one smoke detector was required on every floor of the home.
  • In 1991, one smoke detector was required in every sleeping room.
  • In 2003, a smoke detector was required in the vicinity outside of every bedroom.

Since  1980, the number of home fires and related deaths have been cut roughly in half. Unfortunately an average of eight people die every day from house fires.

So next time the home inspector identifies failed or missing smoke detectors, thank him. He might be preventing a tragedy.

For other interesting articles related to real estate and home inspections, please visit The San Diego Real Estate Inspection Company blog.

Philippe Heller
President
The San Diego Real Estate Inspection Co.
www.sdinspections.com

Philippe Heller
President
The San Diego Real Estate Inspection Co.
www.sdinspections.com
and
KP Pro Tools, LLC
www.PanelPal.com

0 commentsPhilippe Heller • April 08 2009 09:55PM